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Masters of Mixology: 'Cocktail' Bill Boothby

Masters of Mixology: 'Cocktail' Bill Boothby

Back during the long First Golden Age of the cocktail, between the end of the Civil War and the beginning of Prohibition, bartending was a respected profession, if not necessarily a respectable one. That is to say, if you were successful at it, you wouldn’t win any civic awards, and church ladies would sniff when you walked by, but regular working men would consider you to be a figure of substance, a pillar of the neighborhood. This meant that many professional barmen set out to be just that, apprenticing at an early age, climbing their way up from barback to bartender to head bartender to saloonkeeper. Neither the legendary Harry Johnson nor William "The Only William" Schmidt ever knew another job.

Others, however, took a more crooked path. Take William Thomas Boothby, the San Francisco bartender who was, in the years before Prohibition, the dean of West Coast mixologists. Born in the city to Forty-Niner parents in 1862, Boothby proved himself at a young age to have a great deal of that useful quality, hustle. Among his early occupations were vaudeville jig-dancer, real estate agent, tailor, patent-medicine salesman, "restaurant & bakery" co-proprietor (with his mother, who seems to have been rather an estimable character) and, finally, bartender. That was all by the time he was 30. Oh, and in 1891, when he was 29, he even went so far as to publish a bartending guide, one of the first from the West Coast.

Admittedly, this little book, Cocktail Boothby’s American Bartender, didn’t have much to distinguish it from its East Coast competitors. But in 1891, when he published it, Boothby hadn’t been tending bar all that long, his experience limited to a brief stint at the Silver Palace on Geary Street in San Francisco and stretches at a couple out-of-town resorts. When he published a second edition, in 1900, he had another decade of mixology (plus running a restaurant, ticket-scalping and no doubt a dozen other hustles) under his belt. He had also had earned the right to be known as The Honorable William T. Boothby, having served a year in the state legislature.

None of that, however, had much effect on the book, which was printed from the same plates as the first edition, but with an article attached to the front (pirated from the December 18, 1898 issue of the New York Herald) on the world’s drinks and a brief typewritten appendix offering a few more drinks. By then, Boothby was working at the venerable Parker House bar, which had his picture — complete with the hind legs and tail of a rooster — painted on the outside wall.

Then came the earthquake and fire of 1906, carrying off much of the old city, along with the printing plates for Boothby’s book. That meant that the 1908 third edition was entirely new, and incorporated all that Boothby had learned. It abounded in novel cocktails and — a rarity — gave credit for many of the recipes, rescuing a slew of the era’s bartenders from obscurity. In 1914 (by which point he had ascended to the post of head bartender at the Palace Hotel bar, the finest in the city), Boothby added another appendix of new drinks, many with provenance, including the original recipe for the Sazerac, obtained from the late owner of the Sazerac bar in New Orleans. This edition of The World’s Drinks and How to Mix Them, as he now called it, is not only the last repository of West Coast bartending before Prohibition but also one of the foundational texts for the recent revival of the craft.

Unlike many of his contemporaries, Boothby kept right on tending bar after Prohibition rolled around, getting arrested in 1922 for violating the Volstead Act. We don’t know what he did after that, but when he died in 1930 an enormous crowd of bartenders attended his funeral. One likes to think that they toasted him with Boothby Cocktails, a recipe that (ironically) doesn’t appear in the versions of his book published during his lifetime (there was a posthumous edition, much expanded). Whether they did or didn’t, at least we can — and should. "Cocktail" Bill Boothby, whatever his twists and turns, earned his name and then some.

Click here for the Boothby cocktail from David Wondrich.


1934 Cocktail Bill Boothby's World Drinks and how to mix them

COCKTAILS Cocktails,America'sown and,preeminently,her favorite beverage,are prepared either shaken vsrith ice, or stirred with ice, strained into chilled or frosted cocktail glasses (2 ounce), a cherry or some other dainty added, and served. To chill a glass, place therein a lump of ice the size of a walnut and, with a rotating motion, slide the glass so that the ice takes on a spinning motion. When sufficiently cool, toss out the ice and excess water, shake or stir the beverage, strain in and serve immediately. To frost a glass, first chill it. Then wet the inside rim with a small piece of lemon, dip into powdered sugar and toss out the excess. Strain in the beverage, decorate and serve. (This method is used only for "fancies" or the more elaborate cocktails, and never with dry cock tails, such as Manhattan, Martini, etc.) In the realm of cocktails the infinite variety is limited only by the ingenuity of the master of ceremonies or host. The slightest substitution of a cordial, bitter, flavor, etc., etc., in its preparation, ofttimes produces a new and entirely delightful beverage. Some of the most famous cock tails have been brought to light in this manner. The judicious use of egg, white, yolk or both, and of cream, in the compounding of these delicious beverages, again has opened the field to a still wider choice for the connoisseur. Their use, however, is advised only with caution, as many otherwise fine beverages may prove dis appointing with these added. As a general rule most gentlemen, and more than a few of the fairer sex, prefer their cocktails "dry" or plain. Such are Manhattan, Martini, Gibson and many other famous drinks. However, there are many excep tions to this rule, so that the popular host would do well to be prepared to serve any one of a dozen or more of the best-liked varieties, plain and fancy. When adding whole fruits, such as cherries, pickled onions, pimen tos, etc., to cocktails, pierce them with a toothpick and place them in the drink with the toothpick laying over the edge of the glass. Cocktails, to be served before a dinner at which wine is to be a part, should be much diluted (about one-half water) or of the milder sort, such as Dubonnet, Sherry, etc., etc., as the stronger varieties tend to destroy the fine flavors of the better wines as well as the appetite. It has been the effort of the publisher to present all recipes, including varieties, in order that the widest latitude of choice might be possible.


The Search for Lost Classic Cocktail Recipes

Ferreting out the winners and losers from the world’s library of ancient drinks book.

David Wondrich

Photo Illustration by Lyne Lucien/The Daily Beast

People have been writing books devoted to the art—science, craft, practice, habit, perversion, paraphilia, whatever—of mixing drinks since 1827, when Henry Slatter, publisher of the Oxford Herald, supplied the booksellers of that great English college town with a little pamphlet titled Oxford Night-Caps, Being a Collection of Receipts for Making Various Beverages Used in the University.

It’s not much as far as books go: a table of contents, 40 drink recipes, most of them already antiquated (the six recipes for Posset, a drink last in vogue in the 1660s, were at least five too many), and done. Still, it’s a start.

The next book out of the gate moved the talking stick in the matter of drink recipes across the Atlantic, where it would rest for 58 years. Jerry Thomas’ 1862 Bar-Tenders Guide was a mixed bag, with lots of old recipes thrown in for padding, but it also contained recipes for all the crazy American notions that had completely remade the whatever-it-is of mixing drinks: Cocktails, Sours, Cobblers, Juleps, Fixes, etc., etc. This was followed in due course with important books from Americus V. Bevill of St. Louis, Harry Johnson and William “The Only William” Schmidt of New York, “Cocktail Bill” Boothby of San Francisco, Patsy McDonough of Rochester, and a tribe of others too numerous to mention. These books defined the parameters of mixology.


Remsen Cooler

Peel a whole lemon in one long spiral, "as you would an apple" (as Boothby says).* Put it in a highball glass, add the gin and superfine sugar (to get the Old Tom effect), and stir, making sure to mash the peel up against the glass. Then throw in 2-3 ice cubes and top off with club soda or seltzer. You don't need a fresh peel for each round, thank God one is good for 2 or 3 uses.

* You want just the outer peel, without any of the white pith. It's easier, though, to peel the lemon if you cut into the pith -- just lay your peel skin-side down and shave off the white part.

The Wondrich Take:

Paprika and salt are pretty much the same thing. Also wool and nylon, tar and concrete, grits and curly fries. Yeah, sounds kinda fishy to us too, but we're just adopting the logic underlying the venerable old Remsen Cooler. Some say it's a Scotch drink. Others, gin. Hard to find two liquors more different than those. At least everybody agrees on what you do with the stuff -- put it in a glass with a long, long lemon peel, add ic, and soda. Or ginger ale. And maybe sugar. And that lemon peel? You can use orange, instead. Okay, the Remsen Cooler's a problem all around.

We first had to deal with this conundrum back in 1999, when we were setting up the Drinks Database. A quick trip to the archives here at the Esquire Institute for Advanced Research in Mixology allowed us to clear the underbrush. Orange peel, ginger ale, sugar -- nope. Not in the earliest sources. That still left the Scotch/gin question not so easy. You see, Harry Johnson, in the 1900 revised edition of his seminal (and exceedingly scarce) 1882 Bartender's Manual, instructs us to build the drink on "1 wine glass of Remsen Scotch whiskey [sic]." On the other hand, Johnson adds -- with his characteristic muddled syntax -- that "in this country, it is often the case that people call for a Remsen cooler when they want Old Tom gin."* In fact, that's what George J. Kappeler, one of our favorite handlebar moustache-era mixologists, does in his Modern American Drinks, from 1895. No matter. Even though that "Remsen Scotch" kinda rankled -- what's a Scotch whisky doing with a Dutch name? -- we went with Johnson anyway. He might not mean much to you all, but here at the Institute Harry Johnson's a pretty big name.

Still, the question stuck with us. You could say it's because science cannot be ignored -- because a problem left unsolved imperils the whole elaborate superstructure of human knowledge. Then again, maybe we were just curious. In any case, when our archivist rang us up the other day to say that the Institute had just acquired a copy of the Hon. William T. "Cocktail Bill" Boothby's American Bartender, 2nd ed. (San Francisco, 1900), we hurried on down and looked up the Remsen Cooler. Bingo. "Some years ago, the late William Remsen, a retired naval officer and a popular member of the Union Club, N.Y., introduced a beverage to the members of that swell organization which has since taken his name and is now known to all clubmen by the appellation of Remsen cooler." What's in it? Old Tom gin.

If Boothby was right, as seems likely -- the Union Club is still going strong, and informs us that a William R. Remsen was elected to its most exclusive ranks in 1869, which fits -- then where did Harry Johnson get the Scotch from? We've never been able to find any other reference to his "Remsen Scotch whiskey." As always, we've got a little theory. Kappeler, y'see, also lists a "Ramsay Cooler," which is a Scotch Remsen Cooler. Not only is Ramsay a nice Scottish name, unlike Remsen, but in the mid-nineteenth-century one John Ramsay owned the Port Ellen distillery on the Scottish island of Islay and was in fact one of the first people to export Scotch to America. Ramsay, Remsen, easy to mix up -- especially if you're Harry Johnson.

* A lightly sweetened style of gin that has, alas, gone the way of the collar stud and the high-button shoe.


Bee’s Knees

As any regular reader will attest, we are fans of classic cocktails. It would be hard to write these posts if that were not the case, since even contemporary combinations usually find their roots if not their inspiration from the classics. We especially love it when fantastic flavors result from simple recipes. When such a recipe also happens to be versatile enough to yield multiple delicious variations—the cocktail is, well, the Bee’s Knees.

Tracing this drink’s origin puts it somewhere in the middle of Prohibition. It first appears in print in Bill Boothby’s World Drinks and How to Mix Them published in 1934. Sometimes called the Honey Bee, or the Honeysuckle, the basic format is a gin sour that balances the lemon with honey instead of sugar or simple syrup. Boothby’s version also had a spoonful of orange juice, but that disappeared from other references. The extra kick of flavor that the honey brings has led some cocktail historians to suggest this worked nicely to hide the flavors of prohibition “bathtub” gin, and that’s where the fun begins. Despite these earliest references that list gin as the base spirit, the Bee’s Knees works really well as a rum cocktail, or even tequila. You can experiment with anything you think would pair with the honey.

Bee’s Knees
2 oz gin (or white rum, tequila)
1 oz honey syrup
1 oz lemon juice

Add the ingredients to a shaker with ice, shake to chill and strain into a chilled cocktail glass.

Note: To make honey syrup, combine equal amounts of honey with warm water and stir to fully dissolve.

The honey syrup used here is a 1:1 ratio with water, but we have seen recipes that use 2:1. You can do what you want, but you definitely should dilute the honey so that it mixes with the other ingredients. If you try to use it straight, it will clump together and just stick to the inside of your shaker instead of dissolving into the drink. A 1:1 ratio is also convenient because it tends to balance perfectly with an equal amount of lemon juice, although a lighter pour will brighten up the sour a bit. With the proper balance, some recipes cut back on the amount of both honey and lemon, letting their choice of spirit poke through a little more. It’s hard to go wrong here.

Selecting a base spirit to work with the honey means different things to different people. For some, it’s about choosing something with an edge so that it stands up to the honey’s distinct flavor. Alternatively, you could pick something that already has notes of honey, allowing the syrup to further develop the nuances of the spirit. Obviously, the type of honey you use can also affect the outcome. We used orange blossom honey, but with so many possibilities, it can be fun to experiment.

Try white rum for a simple, charming drink. You can even top it off with chilled champagne to create the Airmail cocktail. If a sharp rum works well, it’s only because bathtub gin paved the way, and other spirits yield equally successful variations. You can get away with just about anything. Like a fresh Collins, chances are good that you can make this cocktail with what you have on hand. You don’t need to track down any obscure Italian ingredients nor any expensive liqueurs made by monks. It’s just another incredible classic that is simple, delicious and versatile.


Not Cocktail of the Week #61 (Special Mardi Gras Edition): Sazerac

Not Cocktail of the Week #61: Sazerac
Happy Fat Tuesday! This week’s NCotW comes a day early so that we can celebrate Mardi Gras with arguably the most famous and well-known New Orleans cocktail, the Sazerac. Last year I tackled the Ramos Gin Fizz for Mardi Gras, but I’m definitely overdue for visiting the Sazerac, so for this year’s Mardi Gras Special Edition, I’ll be sharing about the Sazerac.

Background As a venerated classic cocktail, the origin story of the Sazerac must have some thorny contentious issues as David Wondrich actually elects not to go into the background story in interests of length for his book Imbibe!. While he elects not to dive into the history of its creation, in my research, most of the tales seem to converge on a reasonably coherent story. The Sazerac cocktail would not exist without Peychaud’s bitters and their creator, an apothecary named Antoine Amédée Peychaud, was apparently serving “medicinal” drinks comprised of brandy, sugar, and his specially formulated bitters in the 1830s (note this is well past the first mention of the cocktail, found in 1806, see the NCotW on the Old-Fashioned for more). This concoction gained popularity and was eventually served at the Merchants Exchange Coffee House (perhaps akin to the “coffee shops” of Amsterdam?) which specifically used Sazerac-de-Forge et Fils Cognac as its base spirit. In 1859, John Schiller acquired the Merchants Exchange Coffee House, renaming it to the Sazerac Coffee House and between the use of Sazerac Cognac and being served at the Sazerac Coffee House that this cocktail received its name. According to Stanley Clisby Arthur, author of the 1937 Famous New Orleans Drinks and How to Mix ‘Em, at some point in the following decade, Leon Lamothe, a bartender at the Sazerac Coffee House, thought to add the trendy dash of absinthe. Unfortunately, starting in the in the 1860s, Europe’s vineyards were decimated by the phylloxera plague, which severely curtailed the availability of Cognac for the original Sazerac. It was around this time that the Sazerac that we know today finally took shape, as a Thomas (John?) H. Handy, a new owner of the Sazerac Coffee House, changed the base spirit from Cognac to rye whiskey. Yet curiously, there exists bottled versions of the “Sazerac Cocktail, prepared and bottled by Thomas H. Handy”, which date to June 30, 1906, utilizing the original Sazerac-de-Forge et Fils Cognac which originally gave this cocktail its name. Perhaps it is a relic of a bygone era using a personal stash? In any case, in 1933, the Sazerac was bottled and marketed by the Sazerac Company of New Orleans and has persisted as the “Official Cocktail of New Orleans” ever since.

Recipes
The World’s Drinks and How to Mix Them, William Boothby, 1908
via Armand Regnier, New Orleans
Into a mixing glass full of cracked ice place about a small barspoonful of gum syrup, three drops of Selner bitters and a jigger of Sazerac brandy stir well, strain into a stem cocktail-glass which has been rinsed out with a dash of absinthe, squeeze a piece of lemon peel over the top and serve with ice water on the side.

The Savoy Cocktail Book, Harry Craddock, 1930

1 dash Angostura or Peychaud’s bitters

1 glass rye or Canadian whisky [2 oz]
Stir well and strain into another glass that has been cooled, add 1 dash absinthe and squeeze lemon peel on top.

The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks, David Embury, 1948
Fill small Old-Fashioned glasses with finely crushed ice and set aside to chill. Put into pre-chilled bar glass or pitcher for each drink:

3 dashes Peychaud bitters

2 to 2.5 oz whisky
Stir with large ice cubes until thoroughly chilled. Empty the Old-Fashioned glasses. Put 1 dash absinthe in each glass and twirl glasses until inside is thoroughly rinsed with the absinthe, throwing out any excess liquid. Strain liquor into the chilled and rinsed glasses. Twist a strip of lemon peel over each drink and drop into glass for decoration. Serve with a glass of ice water on the side as a chaser.

The Craft of the Cocktail, Dale Degroff, 2002

Splash of Ricard or Herbsaint

2 dashes Peychaud’s bitters

2 dashes Angostura bitters

1 lemon peel, for garnish
Chill one rocks glass while preparing the drink in another. Splash the Ricard into the second glass and swirl it, then pour it out. Add the Cognac, rye, simple syrup, and the two kinds of bitters. Stir with ice cubes to chill. Strain into the chilled rocks glass and garnish with the lemon peel.

The Joy of Mixology, Gary Regan, 2003

3 oz straight rye whiskey

Peychaud’s bitters to taste (be fairly liberal)

Herbsaint to rinse the glass

1 lemon twist, for garnish
Stir and strain into a chilled, Herbsaint-rinsed champagne flute or cocktail glass. Add the garnish.

Imbibe!, David Wondrich, 2007
via William Boothby’s Some New Up-to-Now Seductive American Cocktails, an undated supplement to The World’s Drinks and How to Mix Them
via Tom Handy, ex-manager of the world-renowned Sazerac bar
Frappe an old-fashioned flat bar-glass then take a mixing glass and muddle half a cube [1/2 tsp] of sugar with a little water add some ice, a jigger [2 oz] of good whiskey, two dashes of Peychaud’s bitters, and a piece of twisted lemon peel stir well until cold, then throw the ice out of the bar-glass, dash several drops of Absinthe into the same, and rinse well with the Abisnthe. Now strain the Cocktail into the frozen glass, and serve with ice water on the side.

The PDT Cocktail Book, Jim Meehan, 2011

2 oz Rittenhouse bonded rye whiskey

3 dashes Peychaud’s bitters

2 dashes Angostura bitters

1 demerara sugar cube
Muddle the sugar and bitters, then add the whiskey and ice. Stir and strain into a chilled, Vieux Pontarlier Absinthe-rinsed rocks glass. Twist a lemon peel over the surface and discard.

Bartender’s Choice app, created by Sam Ross and the bartenders at Milk + Honey in NYC, 2012

3 dashes Peychaud’s bitters

rinse absinthe
Chill glass with crushed ice & absinthe, stir and strain rye mixture.

Links and Further Reading
Article via David Wondrich via Esquire
Article with an amazing writeup and history via gumbopages
Article on the “Dos and Don’ts of Sazeracs” via Jeffrey Morgenthaler [READ THIS]
Video via Gary Regan of the Cocktail Spirit

Results
I first tried the standard Sazerac using Rittenhouse rye, a generous barspoon of cane syrup, three dashes of Peychaud’s, and finished with a twist of lemon over the top in an Absente-rinsed glass. This started off by filling my nose with the notes of lemon oil, the musky pepperiness of Peychaud’s bitters, and a hint of sweet anise. When it first passed my lips, I was surprised by how light and subtle it was on the palate at first, with a brief sweetness and a hint of lemon aromatics. As the flavor developed, it became much more robust, going to the familiar spicy and fruity profile of a good rye whiskey, both notes amplified by the Peychaud’s, with the absinthe pushing the fruity flavors a bit forward. The finish is clearly of rye whiskey and I concluded that the Sazerac is the best way to showcase a good rye whiskey, analogous to how an Old-Fashioned does for bourbon.
After the delicious and strong rye whiskey Sazerac, I felt emboldened and curious as to what the possibly more historically accurate Cognac-based version would taste like, so I did an identical recipe except using some Remy Martin VSOP. This was immediately different from the rye Sazerac in the nose, which, while still having lemon, finds it meshing closerly with the fruitiness of cognac and brought forward by a more apparent anise note with the Peychaud’s playing a backup role here. Again, I was surprised by how initially light this was on my palate, in this case the initial note being a slight pepperiness from the Peychaud’s bitters. I’ve never had anything combining Cognac and Peychaud’s before, but I found the combination unexpectedly pleasant, both serving to temper each other, with neither the fruit or pepper notes overwhelming the drink. On the finish, the Cognac fades leaving behind a mild bitterness from the Peychaud’s. I found this version to be very distinct from the rye Sazerac, this one being a much subtler and smoother experience compared to the bold flavor profile of rye whiskey. If you’ve become accustomed to the rye Sazerac, I would encourage you to give it a shot with Cognac, it’s definitely a unique experience and I can see times when I might actually prefer sipping on this.

Peychaud’s Bitters
I have previously written a bit on Peychaud’s bitters in my post on the Vieux Carré, another New Orleans classic, so go there if you want to know more.

Cheers!
Hope you all have a safe time celebrating Mardi Gras wherever you are. As for myself, I’ll probably be quietly savoring a Sazerac. Feel free to chime in if you enjoy the Sazerac in some other unique way, or alternatively if you think I’m doing it wrong. As usual, your questions and feedback are welcome in the comments below. I’ll be back next week with another classic cocktail, but until then dear readers, cheers!


Recipes

The Bamboo Cocktail's creation may have been inspired by the Adonis, also sherry-based with vermouth and orange bitters. The Adonis is made with sweet (Italian) vermouth while the Bamboo is usually made with dry (French) vermouth (but can be made with sweet vermouth and sometimes with both sweet and dry vermouth).

Various recipes for the Bamboo play on the balance between sherry and vermouth. Some use sweet vermouth to balance the dry sherry, others a dash of sugar syrup or liqueur, some are just plain dry:

Bamboo Cocktail (Boothby's 1908 recipe) with equal parts dry vermouth and fino sherry, 2 dash orange bitters and
2 drops Angostura bitters.

Bamboo Cocktail (Savoy 1930 recipe) with 1½ parts fino sherry, ¾ vermouth and ¾ sweet vermouth.

Bamboo Cocktail (Joaquín Simó's recipe) with equal parts fino sherry and dry vermouth sweetened with a splash of sugar syrup.

Bamboo Cocktail (Difford's Perfect recipe) with 1½ parts fino sherry, 1 sweet vermouth and ¾ dry vermouth.

Bamboo Cocktail (with triple-sec) with equal parts fino sherry and dry vermouth with a splash of triple sec liqueur.


The Zozzled Cocktail

Original Source Materials (in chronological order by date of publication). There are many others, but these are the ones referred to most often. Sources other than these are listed in individual posts:

The Bartender’s Guide: How to Mix Drinks or the Bon-Vivant’s Companion, Jerry Thomas, 1862. The first known printed collection of mixed drinks. A second revised edition was printed in 1876. Numerous posthumous editions.

Cooling Cups and Dainty Drinks , William Terrington, 1872

American and Other Drinks , Leo Engel, 1878

Bartender’s Manual or How to Mix Drinks of the Present Style, Harry Johnson, 1888. Numerous later editions.

Cocktail Boothby’s American Bar-Tender , William T. Boothby, 1891. Continually updated the last published 1934

The Flowing Bowl / When and What to Drink , William “The Only William” Schmidt, 1892

Bariana: Recueil Practique et Tous Boissons Americaines et Anglaises , Louis Fouquet, 1896

Modern American Drinks, George Kappeler, 1900

The 20th Century Guide for Mixing Fancy Drinks , James Maloney, 1900

Stuart’s fancy Drinks and How to Mix Them , Thomas Stuart, 1904

The Hoffman House Bartender’s Guide , Charles S. Mahoney, 1905

Louis’ Mixed Drinks with Hints for the Care & Serving of Wines , Louis Muckensturm, 1906

The Worlds Drinks and How to Mix Them , William Boothby, 1908

Jack’s Manual on the Vintage and Production, Care and Handling of Wines, Liquors, Etc./Recipes for Fancy Mixed Drinks and When and How to Serve, J.A. Grohusko, 1910, 1916, 1933 (also 1908, 1912)

American and Other Mixed Drinks , Charlie Paul, 1912

Straub’s Manual of Mixed Drinks , Jacques Straub, 1913

Recipes for Mixed Drinks, Hugo Ensslin, 1916 (second edition 1917)

The Reminder , Jacob A. Didier, 1917

The Ideal Bartender , Tom Bullock, 1917

ABC of Mixing Cocktails, Harry MacElhone, 1919 (Fourth edition 2010)

Cocktails and How to Mix Them, Robert Vermeire, 1922

Barflies and Cocktails , Harry and Wynn (Harry MacElhone and Wynn Holcombe), 1927

The Savoy Cocktail Book, Harry Craddock, 1930

Swallows ( “Cocktail” Bill Boothby’s World Drinks and How to Prepare Them ), William Boothby, 1930

Old Waldorf Bar Days , Albert Stevens Crockett, 1931

Old Mr. Boston Official Bartenders Guide , Leo Cotton (Ed.) 1935

The Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book, A.S. Crockett, 1935

So Red the Nose or Breath in the Afternoon , Sterling North and Carl Kroch, 1935

The Artistry of Mixing Drinks , Frank Meier, 1936

Cafe Royal Cocktail Book , William Tarling, 1937

Cocktails by Jean Lupoiu , Jean Lupoiu, 1938 (also 1948)

The Gentleman’s Companion: Being and Exotic Drinking Book or, Around the World with Jigger, Beaker, and Flask , Charles H. Baker, 1939 (reprinted 2001 as Jigger, Beaker and Glass: Drinking Around the World )


Cocktail Quest

Resources
Note, it is very hard to figure out how to classify each book. Many are reproductions that have been made because of the current cocktail revival. I do not have many original copies. Unless marked, the book is in some form a reproduction of a rare, out-of-print book. To me at least, the most important part of any cocktail guide is the date of the cocktail, so that is what I have tried to decipher. For some, it is hard to discover what exactly was added when a new edition was produced. I have tried to handle this detail as delicately as possible, but an exact study in beyond me.
Originals, Reprints and Facsimile Reproductions

1862 Jerry Thomas, The Bartender's Guide , or the Bon-Vivant's Companion

1884 O.H. Byron, The Modern Bartender's Guide

1887 Jerry Thomas, The Bar-Tender's Guide, or How to Mix All Kinds of Plain and Fancy Drinks

1891 William (Cocktail) Boothby, American Bar-Tender

1891 William Schmidt (The Only William), The Flowing Bowl: What and When to Drink

1895 George Kappeler, Modern American Drinks

1895 C.F. Lawlor, The Mixicologist

1898 Edward Spencer, The Flowing Bowl

1900 Harry Johnson, Bartender's Manual

1904 Thomas Stuart, Stuart's Fancy Drinks and How to Mix Them

1908 Willian (Cocktail) Boothby, The World's Drinks and How to Mix Them

1914 Jacques Straub, Drinks

1916 Hugo R. Ennslin, Recipes for Mixed Drinks

1917 Tom Bullock, The Ideal Bartender

1922 Robert Vermiere, Cocktails: How to Mix Them

1927 Harry MacElhone, Barflies and Cocktails

1930 "Jimmy" (late of Ciro's), Cocktails (reprint edition)

1934 "Cocktail Bill" Boothby, World Drinks and How to Mix Them

1935 A.S. Crockett, The Old Waldorf-Astoria Bar Book

1937 Stanley Clisby Arthur, Famous New Orleans Drinks & How to Mix Them

1937 W.J. Tarling, Cafe Royal Cocktail Book

1941 Crosby Gaige, Cocktail Guide and Ladies' Companion*

1946 Lucius Beebe, The Stork Club Bar Book

1948 Patrick Gavin Duffy, Official Mixer's Manual (reprint edition)*

1948 Trader Vic, The Bartender's Guide (Garden City reprint edition)*

1949 Esquire's Handbook for Hosts*

1951 Charles H. Baker, Jr., The South American Gentleman's Companion, 2 vols.*

1951 Ted Saucier, Bottom's Up

1977 Stan Jones, Complete Bar Guide*

1983 Heather Kibbey & Cheryl Long, How to Make a World of Liqueurs*


Updated Versions (most changes are to front matter)

1992 Charles H. Baker, Jr., Jigger, Beaker & Glass: Drinking Around the World (original published 1939 as the Gentleman's Companion)

1999 Harry Craddock, Savoy Cocktail Book (original published 1930, introduction and new cocktail recipes added 1999)

2008 David Embury, The Fine Art of Mixing Drinks (originally published 1948, subsequent edititions: 1952, 1953, 1958)

2010 Harry MacElhone, Harry's ABC of Mixing Cocktails (originally published 1919, updated material added 1986, 1996, 2010 )

1997 Georgeanne Brennan, Aperitif: Stylish Drinks & Recipes for the Cocktail Hour

1997 Salvatore Calabrese, Classic Cocktails

1997 Gary Regan & Mardee Haidin Regan, New Classic Cocktails

1998 Anistatia Miller & Jared Brown, Champagne Cocktails

2001 William Grimes, Straight Up or on the Rocks: The Story of the American Cocktail

2002 Dale DeGroff, The Craft of the Cocktail

2003 Gary Regan, The Joy of Mixology

2004 Nick Mautone, Raising the Bar: Better Drinks Better Entertaining

2005 David Wondrich, Killer Cocktails: An Intoxicating Guide to Sophisticated Drinking

2006 Jeffrey Hollinger & Rob Schwartz, The Art of the Bar: Cocktails Inspired by the Classics

2007 Jeff Berry, Sippin' Safari

2007 Wayne Curtis, And a Bottle of Rum (revised paperback edition)

2007 Simon Difford, Diffordsguide: Cocktails #7

2007 David Wondrich, Imbibe!

2008 Bridget Albert, Market-Fresh Mixology: Cocktails for Every Season

2008 Scott Beattie, Artisanal Cocktails

2008 Dale DeGroff, The Essential Cocktail: The Art of Making Perfect Drinks

2008 Robert Hess, The Essential Bartender's Guide: How to Create Truly Great Cocktails

2008 LUPEC Boston, Little Black Book of Cocktails

2008 A.J. Rathburn, Luscious Liqueurs

2009 Ted Haigh, Vintage Cocktails and Forgotten Cocktails (revised and expanded edition)

2009 Yuri Kato, Japanese Cocktails

2009 Eben Klemm, The Cocktail Primer:All You Need to Know to Make the Perfect Drink

2009 Anistatia Miller & Jared Brown, Spirituous Journey: A History of Drink, vol. 1

2009 Anistatia Miller & Jared Brown, Spirituous Journey: A History of Drink, vol. 2

2009 Gary Regan & Mardee Haidin Regan, The Book of Bourbon (reprint edition)

2010 Tony Abou-Ganim, The Modern Mixologist: Contemporary Classic Cocktails

2010 Jeff "Beachbum" Berry, Beachbum Berry Remixed: A Gallery of Tiki Drinks

2010 Food & Wine, Cocktails 2010

2010 Jason Kosmas & Dushan Zaric, Speakeasy: Classic Cocktails Reimagined

2010 Ted Munat, Left Coast Libations

2010 Jason Wilson, Boozehound

2010 David Wondrich, Punch: The Delights (and Dangers) of the Flowing Bowl

2011 Jim Meehan, The PDT Cocktail Book

2011 Brad Thomas Parsons, Bitters: A Spirited History of a Classic Cure-All


Masters of mixology compete

Olaf Harmel, bar man at Mon Ami, puts a lemon zest curl in his Salmonesque cocktail for the Bombay Sapphire Most Inspired Bartender competition at Malverde in Austin.

AUSTIN &mdash Call it superstition or simply coincidence, but several things signaled that San Antonio bartenders had a shot at winning last weekend's competition for Bombay Sapphire's search for the Most Inspired Bartender held at Malverde here.

First, the nearby cross street is named San Antonio. Second, as you enter the upstairs bar, the entire wall is adorned with puro San Antonio artwork by Cruz Ortiz.

Add to that three competitors from the Alamo city &mdash Olaf Harmel, barman at Mon Ami and returning winner of last year's San Antonio contest Chris Ware, head bartender at Bohanan's Bar and Mathieu Muckensturm, bar manager at Coco.

There was a lot at stake: winners from 52 regional contests go on to Las Vegas, where they will compete for the Most Inspired Bartender title. The winner will be profiled with his or her signature cocktail in December's GQ magazine Men of The Year issue. Also new this year, three mixologists from the Las Vegas competition will present their cocktails at the Global Bartender Summit in Tuscany, Italy, in October.

At the competition, there were 16 or so bartenders, each with his or her carefully crafted creation.

Harmel, Muckensturm and Ware kept their cool while presenting their drinks to the three judges, who were excited to try Harmel's Salmonesque cocktail, were intrigued by Muckenturm's Coco Thai and liked Ware's Ricky Maurin enough to include it in the top six finalists. In the end, though, the winner was Adam Rose from East Side Showroom in the capital city.

It was the first big competition for Muckensturm, who says he was honored to be one of three bartenders from San Antonio. He used the gin as inspiration for his Coco Thai cocktail.

&ldquoBombay Sapphire is a gin with tons of botanicals infused in there. So, we tried all of them separately. The main ones are juniper, coriander and a little bit of lemon peel,&rdquo he says. &ldquoSince the gin is so delicate, I wanted to bring those flavors out instead of masking them.&rdquo

The San Antonio competition was scratched this year, likely because of contests scheduled in the three other Texas cities &mdash Houston, Dallas and Austin &mdash that are nearby and also have United States Bartenders' Guild chapters. It's a topic that a growing number of San Antonio bartenders have been talking about of late.

Harmel, who won the San Antonio competition last year, drove to Austin to compete again with his Salmonesque cocktail, which is made with a salmon essence infused with gin.

&ldquoIt has a nice flavor with all the fat in there. It's a beautiful drink,&rdquo he says. &ldquoI think I didn't do well because of the practicality of it.&rdquo

He doesn't think the competition favors USBG bartenders or cities, but he does believe San Antonio will have a USBG presence and he would support it.

&ldquoIf it's going to improve San Antonio, which it will, I don't see why anybody would not want to join the USBG,&rdquo he says.

Ware has been visiting Austin bartenders about twice a month, sharing ideas and learning techniques. He's joining their chapter, hoping to help lay a foundation and ease the transition for a future San Antonio chapter.

&ldquoEveryone should join the Austin chapter to get an idea of what it takes to run the chapter,&rdquo Ware said after returning from Tales of the Cocktail in New Orleans.

That advice was given during a late-night/early morning discussion in the Crescent City between some of the San Antonio attendees and David Allen, author of Tipsy Texan blog (tipsytexan.com) and president of the Austin USBG chapter. His recommendation is to learn as much as they can from the trail that's been blazed and the successes and mistakes from our friendly neighbors to the north, whose chapter celebrates its third year this month.

&ldquoIt's a way for them to get involved with USBG while their paperwork is getting processed,&rdquo Allen said in a phone interview. &ldquoWhen we started our chapter, there was no user's manual. They should use us as a resource while they are getting theirs thing going.&rdquo

Matt Moody, a San Antonio bartender and trained chef who also attended Tales of the Cocktail, agrees. He has been a USBG member with the Austin chapter for a year and a half and says it's a good way for bartenders to get their foot in the door and see the inner workings.

&ldquoWith USBG, we have so many more opportunities just working with different brands, bringing in other people from other avenues within the industry and a lot of different drink competitions with the opportunity to travel to other places when you win them that we would not have had access to before,&rdquo he says.

Richard McLeod, senior brand manager of Bombay Sapphire gin, which sponsors the bartender search, echoes that sentiment.

&ldquoIt's a very important milestone for Bombay Sapphire to support the USBG cultivation of undiscovered bartending talent for the fifth year running,&rdquo McLeod said in a prepared statement. &ldquoMany locally recognized mixologists, like Rose, would not normally have this invaluable opportunity to showcase their techniques on a national stage.&rdquo


Published by Boothby's World Drinks, Co, San Francisco, CA (1934)

Used - Softcover
Condition: Good Only

Yellow paperback depicts a mail and female hands holding driniks, against a backdrop of a glove. Book contains a massive amount of information about mixing drinks within., as its author was one of the prime "Mixologists" of his or any day. Sections include: Cocktails Highballs Fizzes Juleps Rickeys Individual Punches Sangarees and Slings Hot Beverages (Toddies, Punches, etc.) Party Beverages Wines and a Miscellaneious section. Original $1.00 price both on title page, and on store sticker, to inside of front cover. Spotting, corner-curling,edgewear, discoloration to yellow covers, and several pages, have drip marks from past cocktail mixing! Not Musty. While The Hon. William T. Boothby did serve a term in the California legislature, "his fame rests on his reputation as an authority on the mixing of drinks and nation-wide experience in the leading bars and hotels of New York, Chicago, Philadelphia, Kansas City, New Orleans, and California.In 1891 he published 'Cocktail Boothby's American Bartender' [which] for many years was recognized as a standard authority." (and called such!). The fourth edition saw a title changed to "The World's Drinks and How to Mix them". Boothby's World Drinks, Co, San Francisco, CA, 1934. Paperback. Condition: Good Only. Fourth Edition.


Watch the video: Cuba Libre u0026 Mojito Worlds Best Bartender (October 2021).